Dear Zahara: 12 Months

Dear Zahara,

Happy first birthday! It continuously amazes me how quickly you are growing into a young girl. You really aren't a baby any more--though of course you'll always be my baby.

You've had a lot of big developments this month, but the biggest is that you're starting to stand by yourself more frequently and with more confidence. It isn't happening all the time, but for a few seconds at a time you'll stand without holding on to anything. You also started "cruising" around the room using furniture.Daddy and I think you'll be walking in the next few weeks. How will we ever keep up with you then?!

This month you started giving real kisses! Sure, they're pretty sloppy, but you give them with purpose and joy. I can't get enough of them.

You've still got five teeth. We thought more would have come in by now, but teething is hard work. Hopefully a couple more will pop through in the next few weeks. You've been showing signs of new teeth for a while. Sorry it's hurting you, but thanks for dealing with it so bravely.

We had your one-year check-up where we were told you are absolutely perfect (in so many words). You are in the 75 percentile for weight, which is where you've been since day one. You're a great, and adventurous eater. I really hope that continues. Daddy and I love trying new foods with you on all of our travels.

Speaking of travels, you've now been to thirteen countries!! Not many one-year-olds can say that. Though you won't remember specifics, I hope you do remember that the world is a big and exciting place. There is so much to see and new friends to make. Please don't lose your sense of wonder.

Zahara, our lives would not be complete without you. I am so lucky to have spent this whole year experiencing each smile, crawl, giggle--and yes, a few tears. This year was a gift; life won't be the same once we move back to the States. I am so grateful for the friends we've made, the trips we've taken, and the time I've had just to be your mummy. Daddy and I love you so much and can't wait to see what this next year brings! Happy first birthday Zoey bug!

Dubrovnik in a Day

On the way to Mostar from Dubrovnik we drove along the coast; on the way back we drove through the mountains. Both views were incredible. I especially loved seeing the city emerge from the water.

Dubrovnik is probably best known for its city walls surrounding the old town. The wall was constructed over several hundred years--mainly during the 12th-17th centuries--and runs for more than a mile. Dan and I were in Dubrovnik for our honeymoon six years ago and walked the walls then. Though it is well-worth seeing, we decided not to do it again this time. It takes around an hour and a half, and it was a really hot day.

With no particular agenda, we did one of my favorite things to do when traveling: wander aimlessly. The old town is pretty small and can easily be seen in one day. I love the steep, narrow roads; flowing fountains; and stunning harbor.

You might recognize the harbor if you're a fan of Game of Thrones. Many of the King's Landing scenes were shot here. The Iron Throne was actually on tour when we were there. Doesn't Zahara look like a natural?

We stayed in an apartment outside of the old town near a small beach. Since it was such a beautiful day, we decided to take Zoey swimming before bed time. Though the water was a little chilly, Zahara loved it! She was giggling and splashing and trying to drink the salt water. It looks like our swim classes are definitely paying off!

Read more about this trip:
Kotor
Bay of Kotor Towns
Day in Bosnia-Herzegovina

A Day in Bosnia-Herzegovina

It was Dan's birthday on the 19th of June. Months ago I asked him what he wanted for his birthday, and he said he wanted me to plan a trip for the three of us. This is likely our last trip while living in England, so I wanted it to be something interesting and unique--to a place we may not have a chance to visit again. After talking to some friends and doing some research, I settled on Montenegro and Bosnia-Herzegovina. I'm not sure I could have pointed to these countries on a map before living here, so they definitely qualify as interesting and unique.

Flying into Dubrovnik, Croatia gave us easy access to Bosnia and Montenegro. We honeymooned in Italy and Croatia almost six years ago, so we didn't plan on spending a lot of time there this trip. Our flights got in pretty late on Wednesday night, so we stayed in Dubrovnik for the night before driving toward Mostar, Bosnia the next day. Bosnia-Herzegovina is part of the former Yugoslavia, and was enmeshed in a terrible civil war in the 1990s. I've been to a couple of former war-zones before (Cambodia, Israel, parts of Europe), but none as recent as this. Driving through the country you see evidence of the war everywhere: shelled out buildings, bullet holes, wrecked infrastructure. It was very sad, but also encouraging that people are moving on and rebuilding.

The drive to Mostar was stunning. The Croatian/Bosnian coastline is one of the most beautiful places I've seen. Just past the border, we stopped in an old Turkish settlement called Pocitelj. We had a fantastic lunch at the top of the hill underneath a canopy of grapes.

Mostar is most famous for its 16th century Ottoman bridge. Unfortunately the bridge, which had been standing for more than 400 years, was destroyed in 1993 during the civil war. The reconstructed bridge was opened in 2004.

I really enjoyed sitting on the "beach" watching people swim in the turquoise water. Though Mostar can be done as a day-trip from Dubrovnik, we opted to stay overnight. It was great spending more time wandering around this old city, and having a more leisurely drive on the way back. If you plan on going, stay at Casa Mostar. It was wonderful!

Read more about this trip:
Kotor
Bay of Kotor Towns
Dubrovnik in a Day

Little Lamb Baby Shower

My friends Adrienne and Zach are expecting their little boy any day now. You might remember Adrienne's dresser that she shared on the blog a while back. A couple of weekends ago another friend and I, Carla, hosted a baby shower to help give these first-time parents some things to get their new life started.

We went with a loose theme that hits close to home--lambs in Yorkshire. The decorations were simple. I made rustic burlap bunting and appliqued "Baby Boy" with Heat n'Bond and some scrap fabric. Carla used an adorable sheep die to make sheep garlands and to garnish the instructions for our craft station.

Guests used fabric markers to decorate baby bibs for Zach and Adrienne's little guy. I made this one with the British flag.

Going with our Yorkshire theme, we served fresh scones with cream and jam; cucumber and cheese and chutney sandwiches; along with some delicious quiches, cupcakes and a chocolate cake.

We played a cute game where guests had to guess the names of various baby animals, and the person who got the most right got a prize. Did you know that a baby fish is called a fry? Or that a baby chimpanzee is called an infant? Me either.

Adrienne and Zach got some great gear for their son, and everyone had a great time.

Like baby showers? Me too!
Our "You Are My Sunshine" Shower
Kim's "Vintage Book" Shower
Nick and Laura's "Baby, It's Cold Outside" Shower

Last Day in Italy

Dan and I had been to Florence before, so we didn't plan on stopping there on this trip. But when Nick and Laura mentioned that they were headed there before our flight just to grab a sandwich, we were intrigued. They said they still dream about the sandwich they had last July. You know me, I'll travel far and wide for good food. And since Florence wasn't too far out of the way to the Pisa airport, it was decided. Plus, it gave us the chance to grab some more gelato. Ha!

I realize that I sound like an incredible jerk for saying I literally went to Florence for sandwich and an ice cream. I am really living the dream. 

We were on a mission. With only around an hour, we managed to grab three gelatos and a life-changing sandwich from All’Antico Vinaio! I have never seen such amazing toppings for a freshly baked focaccia: artichoke cream; truffle spread; roasted veggies; every variety of cheese you can imagine; plus insanely gorgeous meats. I don't eat pork, but this gave me pause. Look at that crackling!

I recommend asking them to choose your ingredients. They know their products inside and out and are great and knowing what works.

Of the three gelatos we quickly inhaled, my favorite by far was from Gelataria Santa Trinita. It might be the best gelato I had on the whole trip. We chose fig and marscapone; and melon. The first was really interesting and very different. The melon was like biting into a really ripe and juicy canteloupe...heavenly! I was enjoying it too much to snap a photo. But here's a cute photo of the babies playing together in front of the Ponte Vecchio.

Read more about this trip:
Cinque Terre Day 1
Cinque Terre Day 2
A Night in Chianti
Wine Tasting in Tuscany
A Taste of San Gimignano

Wine Tasting in Tuscany

One of my main objectives for my time in Tuscany was to visit Montepulciano, a town famous for their wine. I am not a wine connoisseur by any stretch of the imagination, but I do love Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. How perfect that we will be so near to the town where my favorite wine comes from, I thought. Funny story though. It turns out that Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is actually made in Abruzzo, which is three hours south of where we were. Montepulciano, the town, uses Sangiovese grapes to make their famous wine. At first I was a little bummed, but how sad can I really be when looking at these views?

The good news is I like Montepulciano wines too! Just past the gates in to town, there is a shop that does incredible tastings of all of its products. The owner gives such a soft-sell that at first you think he's just a terrible businessman. He gave us a variety of bruschetta and a generous tasting of wine. Then, when we inquired about buying the products, he told us to come back later. He knew we'd have to come back that way to exit the town, and he gambled that we would come back for more tastings and to buy something. Turns out, he knows what he's doing. On our way out of town, we stopped back in and sampled the heck out of everything. We had several kinds of wine; tons of cheese; and local olive oil. I bought a little jar of sweet pumpkin jam that paired wonderfully with pecorino. Nick and Laura bought some wine. 

We did another wine tasting further in town and got to see the massive barrels where the wine is aged.

Montepulciano is full of charm. I loved walking the cobbled streets and peering down the tiny alleys that hinted at its medieval history. We followed a Rick Steves walking tour, which led us to the most delightful coppersmith, Cesare Mazzetti. We approached his workshop just as he was closing up for lunch. When he saw the babies, he couldn't help himself and invited us in for a private demonstration of his work. He doesn't speak a lot of English, and I speak even less Italian, but somehow we managed. He made each couple a beautiful copper medallion with our names and wedding dates on them. His tools were worn down from years of use--they were originally his grandfather's. He hilariously narrated as he worked--"when you two see each other there is an explosion of love." He also predicted that each family would have three more children. I'm not so sure about that one.

The town is bursting with artists. I am still in awe of this man and his mosaics. He was faithfully recreating a Van Gough piece using thousands of tiny rocks. Had each piece not been over $1,000 I definitely would have bought something.

The next day we went to Montalcino, famous for its Brunello. The town was cute, but we didn't have the best weather. It was perfect for doing another wine tasting, and seeing bottles that were worth 2,500 EUR casually laying by the door! Both towns are small, but we spent a lot more time than we thought we would. It is so nice just to wander the streets, grab a gelato and enjoy life.

Read more about this trip:
Cinque Terre Day 1
Cinque Terre Day 2
A Night in Chianti
A Taste of San Gimignano
Last Day in Italy

A Taste of San Gimignano

After an amazing time in Cinque Terre and Chianti, we geared up for the second half of our Italian adventure. We met up with our friends Nick, Laura and baby Genevieve to explore Tuscany. They've been a few times, and recommended basing ourselves in Pienza. First though, we checked out San Gimignano.

San Gimignano

My parents raved about this medieval town, saying that it was home to the world's best gelato. It wasn't just them saying this: a gelateria in town (Gelateria Dondoli) actually won a few Ice Cream World Championships. How could we miss that? Let me cut to the chase. We spent around four hours in the town and ate a total of four gelatos; two were from Dondoli, and two were from the competing gelateria next door, Gelateria di Piazza. Don't judge us. We were conducting research to see which store could actually claim world's best gelato. Our conclusion: mixed results. I vote for the Gelateria di Piazza, with their out-of-this-world chocolate and pistachio flavors. Dan votes for Gelateria Dondoli. I certainly wouldn't pass up either of them though.

In between gelato, we had a fantastic meal at Peruca. The truffle gnocchi we had was incredible, as was the ravioli with pear and pecorino. The place was tiny and the chef used fresh, local ingredients. So delicious! The town itself is gorgeous with amazing views. We walked around the wall and were treated with a lovely recitation of Dante's Divine Comedy by a man dressed in period-costume who was accompanied by a woman playing the harp. It was surprisingly beautiful.

That evening we met up with Nick, Laura and Genevieve in Pienza. We had a great apartment right inside the city walls. It was a perfect base for exploring some of the nearby cities, including Montepulciano and Montalcino. More on that in the next post!

Read more about this trip:

Cinque Terre Day 1

Cinque Terre Day 2
A Night in Chianti
Wine Tasting in Tuscany
Last Day in Italy

A Night in Chianti

After a great couple of days in Cinque Terre, we moved on to a different region: Chianti. I didn't know anything about the region other than I like their wine. Turns out, that's all you need to know.

On the way to our apartment near Greve in Chianti, we stopped in the town of Lucca. We had heard good things about the town from several friends. It was an adorable walled city that grew the biggest lemons I've ever seen in my life!

In Chianti, we stayed in the middle of nowhere, nestled amongst the vineyards and olive groves. We drove to tGreve to explore the tiny town. I really loved the huge butcher shop with the hams hanging from the ceiling and the cheese-aging cave. 

We stumbled upon a really cool wine cellar. You load a card with money and then sample as many wines and liquors as you like. Each wine is priced for a tasting, a half-glass or a full-glass. Prices ranged from a few cents to a couple of Euros for a tasting. We managed to taste nine different wines/limoncello for 10 Euro.

It was a nice, relaxing day in a beautiful setting. Next up: Tuscany!

Read more about this trip:

Cinque Terre Day 1

Cinque Terre Day 2
Wine Tasting in Tuscany
A Taste of San Gimignano
Last Day in Italy

Cinque Terre Day 2

Day 2 of Cinque Terre was even better than the first. The plan was to explore the remaining three towns: Vernazza, Corniglia and Manarola. Due to delayed and canceled trains, we had to skip Corniglia. As they say, two out of three ain't bad. The two towns we saw today were my favorites. It didn't hurt that the weather was absolutely perfect. I cannot get over how the sun sparkles in the turquoise Ligurian Sea. Stunning!

The towns themselves only take a few minutes to walk through. Generally there is a main street with a bunch of restaurants and gelatarias. There is also a church and maybe a town hall. Not too much to see. The real action is in the landscape. We wanted to walk from Vernazza to Corniglia, but unfortunately the easier trail was closed. We accidentally found ourselves on an expert-only panoramic hike, which was not at all appropriate for a woman in a sundress and a man with a baby strapped to his chest. We had to very carefully work our way back to solid ground, but not before capturing some great views.

We took the train to Vernazza and walked on the path toward Monterosso. You have to pay to walk the path, but we just went a few hundred feet to look at the view. Along the way, we saw the aftermath of the flooding from 2011. Today you would never know anything happened in the towns themselves, but it was a devastating flood that nearly destroyed Vernazza and Monterosso.

To get back to Levanto, we decided to go by boat and I'm so glad we did! The views cannot be beat. I loved seeing all five towns lined up like little pastel jewels along the coast.

Before I leave Cinque Terre, I must tell you about one of their delicious specialties called farinata. It is a thin chickpea pancake that is absolutely delicious. I could eat my way through this region. I mean, I did eat my way through. Between the creamy, refreshing gelato; the salty and flavorful pesto; and the endless pastas...let's just say it's a good thing I was only here a few days.

Read more about this trip:
Cinque Terre Day 1
A Night in Chianti
Wine Tasting in Tuscany
A Taste of San Gimignano
Last Day in Italy